Wednesday 27 June 2012

A Blog in Three Parts: Gaborone


June 27, 2012

Gaborone or Gabs, as it’s affectionately known as, is Botswana’s capitol city.  It’s a good sized city.  It’s definitely a city, though.  Although the occasional herd of goats crosses the city streets and there are some ridiculous roundabouts, it’s still just a city.  Some cities have a flavor and are delightful.  Gabs is still in that up and coming stage and it’s pretty much like any up and coming small city.  But it does have all the recommendations of a city, including malls.  As Gavin and Andrea put it, “There’re three malls.  We have to move.”

Really, I’m selling it short.  It is a nice city, but for this country girl all cities are kind of the same.

Gabs is a full day by car away, about eight hours if you’re doing well.  You pass through the other sort of landmark cities of Kang and Jwaneng.  Kang is distinguished by its charming truck stop and Jwaneng by the thriving mine that feed it. 

What really made the trip special was staying at the other CCB camp in Mokolodi.  Mokolodi is an incredible game reserve just outside of Gabs.  It’s absolutely gorgeous.  It’s home to CCB, an education center of its own, and a restaurant with food that’s genuinely good.  (They had excellent calamari).

It’s also home to a pair of spotted hyenas that almost tame.  If you sit quietly and don’t look at them, they’ll come right up to the fence and sniff your fingers.  And since they’re captive hyena, they’re absolutely lovely.  They’re well-cared for and it shows.  I can’t wait to post their pictures.

Mokolodi also treated us to sights of the ubiquitous kudu and impala. But more fun from my perspective was seeing the go-away birds, zebra, and at last steenbok.  Steenbok are a favorite cheetah food.  Mokolodi also has monkeys.  Vervets and baboons, which I wasn’t expecting to see while I was here.  Yet there they were, every morning, jumping on tin roofs and swinging through trees.

Best of all though was the reptile exhibit, although it might have been surpassed by the orphan vervet monkey.  But I’m getting ahead of myself.

The reptile exhibit is home to spitting cobra, rock python, puff adder, a hawk, an owl, a crane, and three vultures.  But best of all, the most delightful snake lady.   She showed us all the birds, talked to us about the snakes, antagonized a cobra so he’d show us his hood (with a snake stick), picked up puff adders (also with a snake stick), and let us hold one of the rock pythons.  Caoilfhionn and I both got to cuddle the rock python juvenile (still about a meter long).  Absolutely awesome.

Mokolodi also has an orphanage for the various animals on the reserve.  At the orphanage were a whistling duck, a pair of birds that I didn’t recognize, a barn owl, and three vervet monkeys.  Two of them were older and had absolutely no interest in people, but one was clearly orphaned quite young and loved people.  His name was Blue.  If you offered him a finger he’d take it and hold on gently.  He was in love with my  watch, my zipper pull, the lace on my sleeves, and Caoilfhionn’s hair.  He was the most darling creature.  I have hundreds of pictures of him because he was just so cute.

Anyway, it was a three day trip all told, although we only spent one full day in Mokolodi.  Another CCB staff drove us back on Wednesday so that we could make the Ghanzi Show.  We had some excitement trying to drive in the dark with cattle, donkeys, goats, kudu, and various other antelope thinking the road might be nice for a nighttime stroll.  But we came back safe and sound.

Next Episode: Ghanzi Show

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